Le Homme.

What a fantastic time for menswear. Parisian designers really brought luxury to the forefront. Wether it was with rich textiles or tailoring, the Parisian Autumn/Winter 2016 season will be great.

Rick Owens! What can I say about Rick? This collection was still Rick Owens in that he is pushing the boundaries of what is menswear, not only in Paris but elsewhere. Yet, at the sometime this was tailored magnificently. And not that he does not tailor his apparel but for this season it was more evident. I have love Rick Owens and his menswear, it is truly something that I will wear. It was brilliant.

White Mountaineering, showed a collection at Pitti Uomo and for Paris they showed their own brands collection. This was very rugged, yet wearable. It was plaids, boots and outwear done wonderfully. Very fashion forward, definitely been put on my radar.

Kris Van Assche for both his line and Dior Homme, were in harmony. Van Assche has separated his own aesthetic to Dior’s. For AW16, Van Assche injected some of his own DNA in the Dior Homme collection. For me it worked on many levels. It was young and edgy but at the sometime very Dior. You should check it out.

 

Dries Van Noten has been a favorite of mine for years. I might be a bit biased when it comes to reviewing his collections but I just think he is that good. This season for his menswear, Van Noten takes inspiration from military with  a little bit baroque infused with art. I like the coats they were decorated but this masculine. And that is what it was, a very masculine collection above all the decorations, textiles and silhouettes. This was a magnificent collection.

 

Faith Connexion was put on my radar this season. This brand is helmed by Christophe Decarnin who was the designer before Olivier Rousteing at Balmain. Deccarin is taking his grunge approach into something great and fashion forward. It is not for everyone but seeing something like this among all the great Parisian fashion is great. It is put together and very fashionable.

 

Sacai and Lavin were great as well.

 

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G!

Happy Birthday Cristóbal

Happy Birthday to the King of Couture and one of my ultimate favorite designer. 

“When a woman walks, the dress must walk, when she dances, the dress must dance, when she raises her arm the jacket should move discreetly.”- Cristobal Balenciaga

Milano

Hello All, hope all is well. I have been seeing some great Men’s fashion collections. London, for the most part, delivered a very heavy outerwear pieces and a relaxed slouch silhouette for the most part. Now for Milan, while many question their mens integrity of the shows, and what is truly the “Italian Style”? I like to think it is heavily relied on textiles and its many uses, as well as prints. Peter Dundas at Roberto Cavalli and Euro delivered a prints galore collections. You have knitwear popping up in the collections of Missoni, of course, but also at Corneliani, Salvatore Ferregamo, Neil Barrett and at Dolce & Gabbana. You have preppy looks at Marni, which was a fantastic collection, Ermenegildo Zegna, superb job that redefined Italian menswear and Marcelo Burlon’s folkloric collection was magnificent. I guess, Italian style is a mixture of refined preppy and luxury with an injection of edginess and rock-n-roll sensibility. The Italian man loves a suit but can also rock a heavy knit tunic and some leather pants, and thats as close as street style the Italian man gets.

The one show that really made my wheels turn, was Donatello Versace’s Mens collection. It was space age meets Versace. It was perfectly styled but above that it had the right amount of idea, creativity and accessibility to the collection. The color palette was great, the details were even better. The first pieces of UV lights was a great way to open the show. It was an outer space collection without being too literal. After all, it is a Versace show. Seriously, if you have not seen the runway video, please do!!

 

G!

LCM day 2 and 3

January 11th brought the closing festivities of three days of London fashions for men. I see that the London trend was elongated and oversized coats, military and wide leg pants tailored perfectly.

I liked Christopher Reaburn military inspired collection yet still masculine without overly done. Coats were amazing, slims jeans gave the models shape. I want that long chunky cardigan.

James Long delivered a fantastic colorful collection with some great pieces. Jeans were painted on to look graphic like and cropped to give the slim feel. Amazing bomber jackets and coats lined in shearling.

Pringle of Scotland, loved how they reinterpreted their house staples. Knits were great here and their argyle sweater gave you a three-d feel to it.

Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen man was about updating those classic pieces in our wardrobe. I liked how this collection absolutely tailored and clean. Surely, Sarah’s vampires or gothic models and a tailored collection elevated this collection.

Moschino was fun to look at. I like the retro late 80’s early 90’s feel to it, and this was a colorful collection. Garments and shoes had a sprayed or painted feel to them with white whiskers like type details to make out creases on pants and jackets. I wan to see some one wearing that.

Christopher Kane, what can I say about this collection. I loved it. I loved it. I’ve been a fan of Kane since discovering his work. I like how tailored his collections and meticulous they are. If he is working on a full on graphic or colorful collection they’re done exactly to fit the body but giving you enough room to move. This season Kane went oversized and wide but still giving you that street style silhouette. I loved the wide dress up pants and jeans, I like the elongated and wide hoodie paired with a slim pant. It was magnificent.

Remember that on the Instagram has more pictures of runway collections of LCM.

G!